You may have heard about niacinamide in your skincare products, or considered formulating with it. There is a reason it is one of the most sought after ingredients in skincare—it really works!
What it is
Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a vitamin B3 derivative that is essential in our cells. It's used in many cellular activities, but it is critically known for generating two co-enzymes, NAD and NADH. These co-enzymes are responsible for producing all of our cellular energy, ATP. We use ATP in our cells to do pretty much everything, but two major important tasks are DNA repair and maintaining overall cell health. As we age, our body's ability to produce our own NAD and NADH tapers off, which makes supplementing skin with topical niacinamide more essential than ever for mature skin.
What it does
The exact mechanism of niacinamide is unknown, but it's well-established in peer-reviewed, scientific literature that improves many aspects of our skin, such as:
- Brightens skin, improving overall tone and reducing yellow sallowness at 5%, 2%
- Reduces hyperpigmentation spots at 2%
- Regulates sebum production at 2%
- Improves skin's texture at 4%
- Reduces pore size at 4%
- Increases water content in skin at 2%
- Boosts skins own barrier protection at 4%
What to expect
Niacinamide doesn't provide instant gratification, and requires daily use of 2-4 weeks to see any benefits. Some studies, such as skin brightening and texture improvement were conducted over 12 weeks of daily application! Skin takes approximately 28 days to turn over and renew. During this time, old pigment and debris is kicked out of the skin, and newly produced ceramides need time to rise to the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of skin. Over time, you will see results!
How to use it
Niacinamide is best used in leave-on products so it can readily penetrate the skin. We recommend formulating it into serums, lotions and creams, formats that give niacinamide the time it needs to get through the outermost layers of skin. It dissolves just like sugar, so it's very easy to use!
Many commercial cosmetic products use high concentrations of niacinamide, such as 10% or 20%. This is completely unnecessary. As you can see from the 7 niacinamide benefits above, very low quantities of niacinamide are needed for efficacy. Only a limited amount can absorb into skin, so this means you are essentially wasting money by adding unnecessary niacinamide to your formula that won't get used by skin. Niacinamide does have longevity in skin, so we can trust that what does get in is staying there! One study6 demonstrated that niacinamide continues to absorb into skin for up to 5 days, with maximum skin penetration at 48 hours and 72 hours after application.
Niacinamide does need some formulating care to ensure it doesn't decompose into nicotonic acid, which can be extremely irritating to skin at even parts-per-million doses. Here are three things to keep in mind when formulating with niacinamide to avoid the formation of nicotinic acid:
Keep the formula's pH between 5 - 8, and preferably between 6 - 7.
Niacinamide is incredibly stable at this pH range, and your skin will thank you for avoiding that famous "niacinamide flush" when nicotinic acid has formed. If you want to combine niacinamide with another ingredient that requires a low pH to work, don't.
Avoid heating niacinamide warmer than 158ºF / 70ºC.
Niacinamide is stable to air and light, but it is not immune to heat. Heat causes decomposition of niacinamide to nicotinic acid. This is easily avoidable by electing to use cold process. If your emulsion requires heat, simply add niacinamide to the batch after emulsification, when the temperature is below 158ºF / 70ºC. Niacinamide has great solubility so should dissolve readily.
Don't combine niacinamide with strong acids, like exfoliating acids.
Exfoliating acids, like glycolic acid, not only have a super low pH, but they can destabilize niacinamide to release small amounts of nicotinic acid. It's best to just avoid them completely in formulations. It's also best to avoid oxidizing ingredients like benzoyl peroxide and ascorbic acid.
Ready to give niacinamide a whirl? Try making our Barrier Repair Cream. Niacinamide and fatty acid-rich emollients reduce water loss in skin, while complementing skin’s ability to produce more ceramides in the outer layers of skin. Butter Pearls enriches the formula to provide a cocooning skin feel.
References
1Bissett, D L et al. “Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin.” International journal of cosmetic science vol. 26,5 (2004): 231-8. doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2004.00228.x
2 Hakozaki, T et al. “The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer.” The British journal of dermatology vol. 147,1 (2002): 20-31. doi:10.1046/j.1365-2133.2002.04834.x
3 Draelos, Zoe Diana et al. “The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production.” Journal of cosmetic and laser therapy : official publication of the European Society for Laser Dermatology vol. 8,2 (2006): 96-101. doi:10.1080/14764170600717704
4 Chiu, Pin-Chi et al. “The clinical anti-aging effects of topical kinetin and niacinamide in Asians: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face comparative trial.” Journal of cosmetic dermatology vol. 6,4 (2007): 243-9. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2165.2007.00342.x
5 Draelos, Zoe Diana et al. “Niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improves skin barrier and benefits subjects with rosacea.” Cutis vol. 76,2 (2005): 135-41.
6Feldmann, R J, and H I Maibach. “Absorption of some organic compounds through the skin in man.” The Journal of investigative dermatology vol. 54,5 (1970): 399-404. doi:10.1111/1523-1747.ep12259184