INCI

Arachidyl/Behenyl Betainate Esylate (and) Arachidyl/Behenyl Alcohol

What It Is

Create lightweight, conditioning emulsions for hair! This 100% bio-based, cationic conditioner has superior smoothing, conditioning and detangling benefits. It can be used as an alternative to Behentrimonium Chloride (BTMC) or Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS)—perfect for those looking for palm oil-free ingredients! Did we mention it’s readily biodegradable, non-irritating and made without solvents or waste by-products?

This oil-in-water emulsifier creates a special emulsion called a lamellar emulsion that helps deliver actives to hair. It works best with an oil phase that is 10-25% of the formulation, and a buffer like sodium lactate.

Natural Emulsifier ES1822+ is clinically proven to:
- At 1% active material, reduce amount of force needed to comb wet hair by 60%
- At 2% active material, provide superior softness compared to behentrimonium chloride
- reduce the appearance of frizz

Why Palm Free?

While palm oil derivatives can be sustainably sourced, some people choose to avoid palm-derived ingredients in their products. Natural Emulsifier ES1822+ is the perfect choice for an ingredient that leaves hair feeling conditioned, without the environmental footprint that traditional cationic emulsifiers can leave behind.

How It's Made

Glycine Betaine is upcycled from sugar beet waste and reacted with fatty alcohols from rapeseed (canola) oil, using a biosourced catalyst to combine them together.

Certifications
Upcycled
Upcycled
Vegan
Vegan
Nut Free
Nut Free
Gluten Free
Gluten Free
Non GMO
Non GMO
Made With Science
Made With Science
People and Planet
People and Planet
INCI
Arachidyl/Behenyl Betainate Esylate (and) Arachidyl/Behenyl Alcohol

Composition
Arachidyl/Behenyl Betainate Esylate 20 - 35%
Arachidyl/Behenyl Alcohol > 60%

People and Planet

Readily Biodegradable (94% within 28 days by OECD 301B)
COSMOS and NaTrue Approved
Solvent free manufacturing process
Doesn’t use feedstock that competes with human food chain


Geographical Origin

Rapeseed Oil - Western Europe
Sugarbeet - Western Europe
Processed in France


Ingredient Origin

Plant (Sugarbeet, Rapeseed Oil)


Function

O/W Emulsifier, Hair Conditioning Agent, Detangling


Types of Formulas

You can use it skincare, but we prefer it on hair! Hair Conditioners, Masks, Conditioning Bars, Leave In Treatments


Use Level
Rinse Off Conditioners 4 - 12%
Solid Conditioning Bars 40 - 80%
Shampoo Bars 2 - 5%
Leave In Conditioners 2 - 6%


Optimum pH of formulations

3 - 6


Tips and Tricks


Works best in emulsions with an oil phase that’s 10-25% of the formulation.
For maximum performance, emulsions containing Natural Emulsifier ES1822+ must contain a lactic acid and sodium lactate buffer solution. This buffer solution must be added regardless of the pH conditions observed. To make a buffer solution, combine:

Lactic Acid 18.5%
Sodium Lactate 31.5%
Water 50%

Incompatibilities

Xanthan Gum, Sodium Alginate, Negatively Charged Ingredients, Cellulose Gum, Baking Soda, Sodium Citrate


Directions for Emulsification

Use two vessels - one for the water phase and the other for the oil premix. Heat both to 80ºC and add the oil into the water. Mix with high shear for 10 minutes. Cool to room temperature with gentle mixing. At 40ºC, add 4% buffer solution and remainder of ingredients.


Color / Odor / Appearance

White to Light Yellow / Neutral / Waxy Pellet


Solubility

Oils, Butters


Melting Point

158ºF - 169ºF


Percent Active

20 - 35% Conditioning Material


Natural Origin Index ISO 16128

1


Storage

Store in closed container in a dark, cool place.


Shelf Life

See retest date on Certificate of Analysis.


Warning

For external use only. Keep out of reach of children.


Regulatory Documents

Safety Data Sheet
Certificate of Analysis Lot 22E136

Sold in ounces by weight. See our Terms for full warranties on safety & regulatory.


Packaging Type
2 oz
8 oz
16 oz
5 LB
Kraft Paper Tube
Stand Up Pouch
Paper Tube
Poly Bag

Quality. Transparency. Trust.
Biomass Collected
Biomass Collected

Upcycled Glycine Betaine and Rapeseed Oil are collected for reaction.

Esterification
Esterification

An organic, biobased acid is added to the mixtures to produce a cationic emulsifier, in a solvent free process.

Pastillation
Pastillation

The cationic emulsifier is formed into pastilles for easy use.

Why It's Special

Not only is this cationic emulsifier good for the environment, it’s good for hair. Your eco-conscious, palm-free customers will appreciate the performance of this conditioning agent!

MAKE IT YOURS
Solid Conditioner Bar

This conditioner bar features our Natural Emulsifier ES1822+. Hair is left soft and feeling conditioned, thanks to this novel cationic conditioning agent. Broccoli Seed Oil helps provide slip on the hair, and Brazil Clays Gold Earth has been shown to help repair the hair’s cuticle.

print recipe

Double Boiler
Scale
2 Mixing Vessels
Immersion Blender
Spoon
Thermometer
Silicone Mold

Skill Level: Easy

Makes 75 grams or 2.5 ounces.

d
INGREDIENT FORMULA  WEIGHT
1 Natural Emulsifier ES1822+ 60.5% 45.37 g
2 Natural Emulsifier 68 MB 3.0% 2.25 g
3 Organic and Fair Trade Cocoa Butter 7.5% 5.63 g
4 Organic Shea Butter 5.0% 3.50 g
5 Broccoli Seed Oil 19.0% 14.25 g
6 Brazil Clays Gold Earth 2.0% 1.50 g
7 Panthenol Powder* 1.0% 0.75 g
8 Fragrance 1.0% 0.75 g
9 Preservative PE 1.0% 0.75 g
TOTAL 100%  75.0 g

Ingredients marked with an asterisk can be purchased from any supplier.

Prepare a double boiler with water in the bottom pan and add ingredients 1-5 to the pan. Begin heating to 175ºC. When at temperature and mixture is completely melted, add Brazil Clays Gold Earth and disperse using an immersion blender. Turn off heat and cool to 150ºC with gentle stirring. Add remaining ingredients one-by-one.

Prepare your silicone mold. Before pouring mixture into the mold at 150ºC, give it a good stir with the immersion blend to ensure clay is dispersed. Pour into mold and allow to solidify.

INGREDIENTS: Arachidyl/Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl/Behenyl Betainate Esylate, Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Seed Oil, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Kaolin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Panthenol, Fragrance, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

This recipe is only a representative formulation to serve as an example of how these ingredients can be used. It is not a commercial product. Please conduct own testing as this formulation has not been subjected to testing for either performance, efficacy or safety.

Before handling ingredients, read all product information and safety data sheets for the ingredients to understand any handling instructions, safety precautions, and disposal instructions.

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