INCI

Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine

What It Does

Looking for a hair conditioning agent suitable for fine hair? Always wanted to make a cleansing conditioner but wasn’t sure where to start? Look no more! Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine MB is a cationic, lightweight conditioning agent that:
- softens the hair’s cuticle
- improves wet and dry detangling
- adds shine
- reduces the appearance of frizz
- conditions without build up

Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine MB is also an emulsifier in hair conditioners, stabilizing the oil and water phases. This ensures long-term stability of your product.

SAPDMA can also be added to any shampoo to make the shampoo a 2-in-1 conditioning experience.

Why Mass Balance?

Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine is typically derived from palm oil. Therefore, it is critical to use Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine from mass balance palm certified sources as a step towards sustainable palm use.

Pro Tips

When making lightweight conditioners for fine hair, Valerie always reaches for SAPDMA instead of BTMS or BTMC. It does require a low pH to be cationic and emulsify, so add a little bit of citric acid to the water phase before adding in SAPDMA to create the ideal emulsifying environment. See details below for additional formulation guidelines!

How It's Made

Stearic acid is heated with DMAPA. Additional DMAPA is added. The mixture is cooled, and leftover DMAPA is removed by steam distillation. The mixture is then purified to remove any leftover reactants, before being filtered and formed into pellets for easy use.

Certifications
Vegan
Vegan
Nut Free
Nut Free
Gluten Free
Gluten Free
Non GMO
Non GMO
Made With Science
Made With Science
Mass Balance Palm
Mass Balance Palm
People and Planet
People and Planet
INCI

Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine


Composition
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine 100% (CAS 7651-02-7)

People and Planet

Readily Biodegradable
Mass Balance Certified Palm Certificate SCS-RSPOSCC-000014
Halal Compliant
Kosher Compliant


Geographical Origin

Palm Oil - Indonesia
Manufactured in the United States


Ingredient Origin

Plant (RSPO Palm Oil)
Synthetic (Petrochemical)


ISO 16128 Natural Origin Content

78%


Function

Hair Conditioning, Detangling, Lamellar O/W Emulsifier


Types of Formulas

Conditioners, Shampoos, Leave In Hair Conditioners or Stylers, Shampoo Bars


Use Level
Rinse Off Hair Conditioners 1.5 - 3%
Leave In Hair Creams 0.5 - 2%
Detangling Spray 0.5 - 1%
2-in-1 Shampoo 0.5 - 1% (pH must be closer to 6)

Lip Safe

Not recommended for use in lip products.


Eye Safe

Not suitable for eye products and should be used with caution near the eyes. Products should bear an eye safety warning.


Required pH of formulations

3.5 - 6.5


Tips and Tricks

See directions for emulsification on how to make an emulsion without a separate oil phase.
SAPDMA requires a low pH to act as an emulsifier. A co-emulsifier isn’t always necessary. The closer your cream is to a pH of 3.5 - 4.0, the more viscous the cream will be. The product will thin significantly over pH 4.2.


Directions for Emulsification

SAPDMA can be formulated with either a two-pot or one-pot process. For two-pot processing, add SAPDMA directly the oil phase and heat to 167ÂșF (75ÂșC) Pour the oil phase into the water phase under rapid mixing. Adjust pH at the end of the batch. For one-pot processing, first add a neutralizer like citric acid to the water and heat to 167-176ÂșF (75-80ÂșC). Add the SAPDMA and allow to melt. Add in the other oil phase ingredients, one by one, under rapid mixing.


Incompatibilities

Anionic (negatively charged) ingredients at a low pH. If formulating into a cleanser, keep pH closer to 6-6.5.


Color / Odor / Appearance

Yellow / Characteristic / Pellets


Solubility

Hot Water (with pre-neutralization). Oil.


Melting Point

149ÂșF - 158ÂșF (65ÂșC - 70ÂșC)


Percent Active

100


VOC Content

0%


Storage

Store in closed container in a dark, cool place.


Shelf Life

Shelf life is only relevant to the date it was manufactured and how it was stored! Please use the retest date on the Certificate of Analysis below to see when this ingredient should be retested for continued use.


Warning

For external use only. Keep out of reach of children. This product can irritate eyes; please use proper eye protection when formulating with this product.


Shipping Restrictions

This product does not ship outside of the United States as it is considered a Class III material in international transport.


Regulatory Documents

Safety Data Sheet
Certificate of Analysis Lot 22E136 (now shipping)

Sold in ounces or pounds by weight. See our Terms for full warranties on safety & regulatory.


Packaging Type
2 oz
8 oz
16 oz
5 LB
Stand Up Pouch
Stand Up Pouch
Paper Tube
Poly Bag

Quality. Transparency. Trust.
Synthesis
Synthesis

Stearic acid is heated with DMAPA. Additional DMAPA is added to create SAPDMA.

Distillation
Distillation

Leftover DMAPA is removed by steam distillation, purifying the product further.

Filtration
Filtration

The product is filtered to remove any byproducts.

Pastillation
Pastillation

SAPDMA is pastillated for ease of use.

Why It's Special

It’s perfect for formulating products for fine to medium, or damaged, hair, without the build up.

Make It Yours
Soft and Silky Conditioning Bar

This easy-to-make conditioner bar leaves hair feeling soft and silky in no time! It features Marula Oil, high in oleic acid, to strengthen strands, and Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine MB to gently condition tresses without weighing them down.

print recipe

Double Boiler
Small Mixing Bowl
Thermometer
Scale
Spoon
Silicone Mold

Skill Level: Easy

Makes 200 grams. Number of bars depends on the mold.

INGREDIENT FORMULA  WEIGHT
1 Marula Oil 27.0% 52.0 g
2 Cetearyl Alcohol MB 32.0% 64.0 g
3 Shea Butter Soft 5.0% 10.0 g
4 Fair Trade Cocoa Butter 15.0% 30.0 g
5 Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine MB 15.0% 30.0 g
6 Citric Acid USP 4.00 8.0 g
7 Rosemary Mint Fragrance 2.0% 4.0 g
TOTAL 100%  200.0 g

Ensure all equipment is clean and sterilized.

Add ingredients #1-5 to the main vessel and begin heating to 167ÂșC (75ÂșC). Mixture should be clear of physical particles. Once melted, start stirring and begin cooling mixture to 149ÂșF (65ÂșC). Add #6-7. Pour into molds and let cool.

INGREDIENTS: Cetearyl Alcohol, Sclerocarya Birrea (Marula) Seed Oil, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Citric Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil, Mentha Arvensis (Corn Mint) Leaf Oil, Mentha Viridis (Spearmint) Leaf Oil, Carvone*, Limonene*, Menthol*, Pinene*

* naturally occurring fragrance allergens in the Rosemary Mint Fragrance

This recipe is only a representative formulation to serve as an example of how these ingredients can be used. It is not a commercial product. Please conduct own testing as this formulation has not been subjected to testing for either performance, efficacy or safety.

Before handling ingredients, read all product information and safety data sheets for the ingredients to understand any handling instructions, safety precautions, and disposal instructions.